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"The Quena" |
The quena or kena, traditional flute of the Andes, is about the easiest
non-trivial instrument you could make. It's just a tube with seven finger
holes and a notch to blow against; but, oh what a sound! Why would you want
to make one? Because you like the sound. Because you always wanted to make
an instrument but didn't know where to start. Because you just need to play
that heavenly Andean music. Note that quena making is not a science. This
method does not guarantee an excellent instrument. There is no standard. Precision
is not a requirement. But if you make one, you can make more, and improve
each new one.
Materials
You can make a quena out of any kind of tube: bamboo, wood, metal, plastic,
clay. The material has only a little effect on the sound of the instrument.
The inside diameter should be 1.75cm (11/16") plus or minus 0.15cm (1/16"),
and the wall should not be too thick (3/32 to 5/32"). The wall should be straight;
either cylindrical or very slightly conical (tapered, widest end at the mouth).
The most readily available plastic tubing and the most easily worked is the
PVC water pipe from your local hardware or home improvement store. There are
two kinds of PVC pipe: cold water (irrigation) and hot water (180 deg.). (In
the store they are identified by "schedule number", but I don't remember what
those are.) The 180 deg pipe has thinner walls, and it's PVC is (supposedly)
less toxic. The inside diameter of the 180 deg. pipe is nominally 3/4", but
in fact is less (11/16"). The irrigation pipe (73 deg., schedule 40) is in
fact 3/4" in diam. I have made quenas of both using the same hole positions.
The irrigation pipe works OK as a "quena en MI" (that's how my Bolivian friends
call the standard quena whose lowest tone is G, MI being the relative minor
of G), but is more suitable for a quena en re (useful for Ecuadorian music)
or for a quenacho (en SI). Did I say "less toxic"? Yes. There is mounting
evidence that polyvinyl chloride (one of the components of PVC plastic) and
other organochlorides (including DDT and PCBs) in our environment contribute
to development of cancers (see Mother Jones MJ94).
Procedure
Cut the tube to length (the dimension marked "end" in the tables). I always
cut the tube a little long and then trim it to pitch after I've made the notch.
Form the notch: Use a sandpaper-covered dowel, a round bastard file (or rasp),
or a hot iron. The diameter of the tool should be equal to or slightly smaller
than the width of the notch. The trick to making a well-rounded, U-shaped
notch is to hold the tool perpendicular to the body of the quena. If the tool
is a file, you can only use very short stokes, as the end of the file hits
the opposite wall of the tube. The cylindrical shape of the tool ensures that
the end of the notch remains semicircular. It doesn't take much deepening
of the notch to raise the pitch a lot. Filing perpendicularly dulls the edge
that you blow on, so you have to sharpen it again. This time use a dowel or
file larger than the notch's width, and use diagonal strokes on both sides
of the blow-edge. Don't oversharpen lest you make a pointy notch (that is,
a V-shape instead of the desired U-shape). The goal at this stage is to bevel
the edges of the notch that you've already made, not to make the notch bigger.
Bevel the edges of the notch-cut from both the inside and the outside of the
tube. The proportion of inside to outside filing is a matter of taste. Most
people place the blowing edge at the middle of the tube wall; but I have a
kena with the edge at the inside of the tube wall (they filed only on the
outside). In any case you have to adjust your lips to blow at the edge you
have formed. Draw a straight line from the bottom of the notch down to the
foot of the quena. This will serve as a guide for positioning the finger holes.
Use a length of adhesive tape to help make the line straight. Mark the positions
of the finger holes. Traditionally, the holes are in a straight line; but
you may find the instrument easier to play if you offset some of the holes
to one side or the other to match the lengths of your fingers. Perforate the
tube. If you use a hot iron to perforate, be sure not to breathe the fumes,
especially not those of a plastic tube. Arrange a work space outdoors in such
a way that the breeze carries the fumes away from you. If you are using a
power drill, make pilot holes with a small drill bit. Then follow with bits
progressively larger in diameter. You now have a quena which probably plays,
but plays out of tune, and is generally low in pitch (flat). Go to the section
on tuning.
Tools
Tube cutter. The tool for cutting copper pipe -- the kind that you screw down
tighter and tighter as you rotate it around the tube -- works well on bamboo
and PVC, too, though you have to carefully steer it through the first few
revolutions to ensure that it doesn't start spiraling. A hacksaw also works
for plastic. It makes a mess of bamboo. A knife is the traditional cutting
tool for bamboo. Perforator. Hot metal rod. You can use rebar, railroad spikes,
soldering pencil, whatever. Your work will be easier and neater if you have
several irons of sizes to match the holes you need to make. Sharpen the business
end a little so the iron will enter where you point it. You can heat the iron
in the embers of a bonfire or barbecue. Drill. A power drill can easily split
bamboo; the hot iron is best. Round files. Several round or half-round bastard
files. Or sandpaper wrapped around a rod, dowel, or tube. The latter is not
very useful for the notch. Reamer. The deburrer that comes with the tube cutter
works well for keeping the holes round after you enlarge them with a file
or hot metal rod. Sandpaper. Fine wet-or-dry sandpaper (for finishing). Tape
measure. For transferring dimensions to your tube. Tuning standard. Some device
that generates sustained tones at any pitch is best. I use an electronic Korg
chromatic tuner. You can also rest a weight on a key of an electronic organ
to sustain a tone while your hands are busy playing the quena. If you use
an acoustic piano, be sure that the piano is tuned to standard pitch. All
stringed instruments go flat (lower in pitch) with age.
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